Worried about my baby beardies ,, any advice welcome ! - Page 2

Tom · 22nd September 2009, 10:14 PM

no worries..

as for above duke... 99% of there water content is gained through there salad.
so offering this daily is required, as well as part of there diet. :)

Hope she is better soon mate.

HadesDragons · 25th September 2009, 11:22 AM

Hi Jamie,

Is there any chance you could get a couple of photos of each of the setups? What have you been measuring temperatures in them with - what are the cool end temperatures?

If you sit one of the sleepy dragons on the basking spot, does it stay there or does it move back to lie down somewhere? What UV sources are you using in the 4' viv? Are you using reflectors or anything like that?

It might seem like a daft question, but what morph are they all - some morphs may be more susceptible to some problems than others...

Quote:

Originally Posted by theduke

thanks guys just read this thread, im having same trouble with my baby female beardie. i have never seen her drink, the male is alot bigger i will try all your suggestions thanks !!!!!!!!

I'd split them up if there's a noticeable size difference - keeping a large male with a small female usually ends in problems...

Jay_sx · 25th September 2009, 05:16 PM

Cheers Andy for getting back to me ,im just sorting out some photo's of the 3 living areas i have got set up here ,

i measureing the temps with digital themometers ,1 exo terra digi in the exo terra glass viv ,and a duel digital read out themometer for the 4ft viv that i have made into 2 x 2ft living areas ,all on stats the 4ft viv is running 2 heat bulbs off of 1 dimmer stat ,the exo terra is running 1 heat bulb on an on off stat , the uv is a repti glo 10 42 inch ,no reflectors, in the exo terra viv im running a canopy with the screen removed and a solid half top so its holding good heat ,running 3 compact bulbs 1 x 10 1 x 5 1 x 2 with reflectors built into the light hood ,with a 60w heat bulb hanging inside .

The 3 dragons are from 3 different bloodlines ,,,,the healthy dragon is blood red x red face , the 2nd dragon that was eating well to start with is a Ruby red x green Citrus and the
3rd is blood red x blood red/yellow from just dragons .

TungChung · 25th September 2009, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jay_sx

Cheers Tom ,went and got a new selection of food ,water cress, wild rocket, corriander and squash ,i will pick up some other bits next visit to the super market , the smaller 1 of the 2 sick dragons took some small locusts this morning aswell so maybe things are looking up as the other 1 also looks more alert and no stress marks today and eyes wide open again , as rob said it wont happen over night but i think with all the help an advice from you guys we will get there . im learning fast and getting to know what im dealing with here ,after 2 relocations in 3 weeks they just aint happy campers ,,hopfully no parasites , but i will monitor them strictly each day for signs of problems ,,,,thanks again mate ! top man .

jamie

Sometimes relocation contributes to their stress and affects their eating. Some dragons get affected more than others.

If you have some electronic kitchen scales, it's worth keeping an eye on the dragons weight, has the dragon poo'ed lately, hate to go into detail on this, but it's quite important... when it does poo'ed does it look solid or runny, any undigested bits, traces of blood etc? Does its poo smell more than the other dragons?

With the squashed up food you are hand feeding, it may be worth putting a little bit of reptiboost or avipro to help kick start the bacteria in it's tummy.

Also, do you see any evidence shaking in the dragon?

Usually any prolonged lethargy in Dragons, it's worth visiting a vet if it doesn't improve.

Regards Tung

Ps. If you do have two males, at 12 weeks it shouldn't really matter, it's only when they get older you should look into seperating them, especially before 6months.

Jay_sx · 25th September 2009, 11:08 PM

Hiya Tung
I first thought it was just relocation stress and wasnt to worried about the fact there may be 2 males as they are so young as you say ,but i decided to seperate them to elimate anything that maybe causing the propblem with 2 of them feeding , yeah they both poo each day ,with the small male dragon which is the youngest of the 3 by 25 days his poo is slightly watery , the other inactive dragon was the strongest of the 3 to start with poo's each day and its more solid only slighty soft as im only feeding them smashed up salad items with calcium and vitamins through syringe each day , no evidence of shaking at all , its a shame i didnt weight them when i bought them but what i can say is i bought the first 2 on the same day from 2 different breeders near to me and they were the same size ,well i have just this minute put them both on the scales and the healthy active dragon is 21.1 gr and the inactive one is only 14.7 gr , the very small dragon that i got about 2 weeks after the first 2 is 25 days younger and only weights 8.1 gr but he was small when i got him ,just hasnt put on any weight ,maybe lost a little if anything at all .

TungChung · 26th September 2009, 01:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jay_sx

Hiya Tung
I first thought it was just relocation stress and wasnt to worried about the fact there may be 2 males as they are so young as you say ,but i decided to seperate them to elimate anything that maybe causing the propblem with 2 of them feeding , yeah they both poo each day ,with the small male dragon which is the youngest of the 3 by 25 days his poo is slightly watery , the other inactive dragon was the strongest of the 3 to start with poo's each day and its more solid only slighty soft as im only feeding them smashed up salad items with calcium and vitamins through syringe each day , no evidence of shaking at all , its a shame i didnt weight them when i bought them but what i can say is i bought the first 2 on the same day from 2 different breeders near to me and they were the same size ,well i have just this minute put them both on the scales and the healthy active dragon is 21.1 gr and the inactive one is only 14.7 gr , the very small dragon that i got about 2 weeks after the first 2 is 25 days younger and only weights 8.1 gr but he was small when i got him ,just hasnt put on any weight ,maybe lost a little if anything at all .

Ideally if it was me, I would try give a higher protein diet and try to tempt them with live food. Probably best to keep the active one on it's own and the two inactive together so they don't need to complete for food.

Have you tried using tweezers and wave live food infront of the weaker ones to get a response? Try leaving about 10 - 12 locusts in over the course of the day or two and count them after to see if any has been taken. Try with some variety too, crickets, roaches, pheonix worms and the odd butterworm.

If you have no choice and need to continue hand feeding, try adding some crickets to the salad mix to increase protein consumption.

Regards Tung

Jay_sx · 26th September 2009, 02:46 AM

Thanks Tung
I will try adding some small crickets to the smashed up mixture i feed by syringe tomorrow , but to be sure i have booked them into a herp vet for sunday morning for a stool sample test , really dont wanna loose the little guys .

jamie

TungChung · 26th September 2009, 02:29 PM

Hope they makes a full recovery mate

theduke · 26th September 2009, 03:36 PM

hi, im trying to get my two beardies to eat there greens they just won`t any tips please !! they will eat crickets, roaches but no greens :(

TungChung · 26th September 2009, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theduke

hi, im trying to get my two beardies to eat there greens they just won`t any tips please !! they will eat crickets, roaches but no greens :(

Try giving them a variety of different salads. Also, beardies like things in large amounts, try placing a large mound on/near the basking area rather than in a dish and see if that'll help